The correction detail.

With the surfaces surgically clean, I begin the paint correction. This stage alone typically requires upwards of fifteen hours of focused labor. My sixteen years of professional experience allows me to understand how different paint finishes respond and exactly how far I can safely "cut" the surface to achieve the best possible result.

• Masking & Measuring: Before a machine touches your car, I mask all delicate trim and rubber to prevent cross-contamination. I then use a digital paint depth gauge to analyse the thickness of the clear coat, ensuring there is a healthy margin to polish safely.

• The Cutting Stage: This is the most labor-intensive part of the detail. Using specialised cutting compounds, I level out swirl marks and RIDS. While this heavy stage removes the deep defects, it can often leave a slight haze behind.

• Paint Jeweling: This is a crucial step. I follow the heavy cutting with a "jeweling" process, using fine polishes to remove any holograms or marring. This restores depth, leaving the reflections crisp and crystal clear.

• Protection: To lock in the finish, I apply either a high-grade T1 Carnauba Wax (for a 3–4 month "warm" glow) or a paint sealant (for 6–8 months of "clinical" high-gloss protection). For those seeking the ultimate durability, this stage is frequently upgraded to a ceramic coating for the ultimate level of protection.

• Finishing Touches: No detail is complete without the final flourishes. Wheels, tires, and arches are dressed and protected. The interior is thoroughly vacuumed and wiped down, with isolated stains addressed, and all glass is cleaned to a streak-free finish.